Is the international luxury industry scamming us, one overpriced handbag at a time? Once synonymous with bespoke pieces painstakingly hand crafted in designer ateliers in the fashion capitals of the world, many luxury brands have, in recent years, shifted their supply chain to China. Without informing their customers of the move.
This lack of transparency came to a head earlier this year when Trump imposed punitive tariff hikes on Chinese imports and China reacted by outing expensive American, but also European, brands like Balenciaga, Gucci, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein (to name a few) of being mass produced in China at bargain-bin prices.
Some brands refuted the claims as fake news; others admitted to guilt by omission. Either way, the damage was done. Many loyal customers took to social media to publicly blame the brands they used to covet of prioritising profits over traditional craftsmanship and cutting corners on the quality they built their legacies on.
The result? An alarming global slowdown on luxury purchases. Power houses like Kering (who own brands including Gucci, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga) and LVMH (owners of Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior) have both seen significant declines in sales, with Gucci suffering the brunt of the blow. The Italian fashion house dropped 25% in the first quarter of 2025, has closed 25 of its stores and plans to close 50 more underperforming outlets in the near future.
Does this worldwide downturn signal the end of luxury fashion as we know it? Many insiders claim it will recover while others believe this is the tipping point for change. They’re calling for a return to true luxury: items that are rare, handcrafted, ethical and bespoke. Where the origin of what you’re buying is known and verified, and the emphasis is not on ‘fast’ or ‘more’ but on ‘slow’ and ‘less’. Much, much less.
Here is how two local style mavens are redefining what luxury means in South Africa, and their top tips on what we should be investing in.
COLLECT PRE-LOVED TREASURES
Dominique Beneli Lamon, owner of All Dom Loves – a luxury pre-loved and vintage store in Cape Town – believes the luxury industry is at an important turning point because consumers are becoming far more intentional in their purchases.
“Women want authentic vintage because it’s often better quality than the new products sold in store. This customer knows that Chanel handbags used to be sold with 24k gold plated hardware but now it’s only gold toned. They also know that the only place to find authentic vintage Chanel is on the pre-loved market.”
And she should know. As a model living and working in Paris, Dom spent years carefully curating her own collection before returning home to South Africa to turn her passion for fashion into a career in pre-loved and vintage retail. Four years later, business is booming.
“Shopping pre-loved is a no-brainer,” Dom says. “It gives shoppers access to exclusive pieces from brands you can’t get in South Africa, and they’re usually priced below their current retail value.”
Just don’t get caught out by sellers trying to pass off counterfeits as the real deal, she warns. “The market is flooded with fakes so insist on an authentication certificate from Entrupy. It’s the gold standard in verification AI, and every pre-loved item I sell comes with one.”
This is particularly true of investment pieces like Hermès Birkin or Kelly bags that have demonstrated the potential to outperform gold as an investment, with some analyses showing higher annual appreciation rates.
“Since you can’t buy these items in store unless you have a history of spending with the brand, expect to pay more than double the current retail price on the pre-loved market, depending on the age and condition of the bag, as well as the attachments it is sold with.”
Since very few people have half a million Rand to spend on a handbag that’s far too valuable to wear in case it gets stolen or ruined, Dom advises buying a beautiful, but also practical, piece.
“After all, life is short, so buy the bag you love and have fun showing it off.”
INVEST IN AFRICAN LUXURY
Designer Kat Van Duinen believes that luxury fashion should focus on the convergence of ethics and style. Her business strives to make a positive impact on both people and the planet by committing to ethical and sustainable business practices, from sourcing to manufacturing and beyond.
“We source exotic leathers for our handbags from authorised and regulated farms and breeders, ensuring that every skin used is legally and ethically sourced, taking great care to ensure that the animals are raised with respect and care in specially-farmed, certified facilities.”
KVD also values their work-force, ensuring that everyone who contributes to their creations is well paid and treated with respect and dignity. “By prioritising people and the environment, we’re working to create a better world for all while also growing a local luxury industry that reflects Africa’s true vibrancy,” she says.
Kat believes for African luxury to truly succeed globally, local brands need to stop copy-pasting international designs and manufacturing processes, and should instead stand by their own convictions of what is right. Or, she warns, they also run the risk of being outed for shallow business ethics and products of dubious quality.
“For shoppers looking for true luxury, use verified online resources and fact-checked social media to investigate the brands you’re buying from,” Kat advises. “Investigate their business practices and be curious about the process, craft and energy they employ in creating luxury pieces.”
And if you’re browsing Kat’s own range, her top tip is to invest in a KVD exotic leather tote. “It’s a great example of a sustainable luxury product because it was designed in 2010 and is still relevant and timelessly stylish today.”
